Kutch Diaries - The Fortified Palaces of Bhuj

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The second day of our Kutch tour was Bhuj and Mandvi City tours. After a tiring first day tour, kiddo was not ready to wake up early. While most of the palaces of Bhuj open at 9AM, we finally got ready, had masala Puri and dal for breakfast and started with our city tour by 9.
We started with the palaces of Bhuj, Rani Ka Kas, Prag Mahal and Aina Mahal in the fort complex. Though the best way to visit this fort is by a walk through the narrow lanes of Bhuj, we didn't have enough time and had to drive through. Our taxi driver was very keen in guiding us, through the city. When I checked with him, if the damaged buildings were because of the earthquake, he said, most of the natives of Bhuj were NRIs and they keep demolishing even the new houses to build better ones. He also said, few years back a huge amount of money(in crores) of an NRI family went unclaimed at a Bank because of no nominees.
It was just then that we reached the fort entrance, the vehicle drives in and there is paid parking in the fort complex. The fort entrance is completely in ruined state, with few small stores selling water bottles and packed snacks on either side of the entrance.

The fort entrance

Rani Ka Khas: As you enter the fort, you find a red stone building standing just in front of you, Prag Mahal and adjoining the fort wall, is a completely ruined building. We were told it was the ruins of Rani Ka Khas or Rani ka Vas, which had a bad damage in 2001 earthquake. The remains have some beautiful intricate carvings on the window frames and the ceiling wall, which proves the palace would have looked really beautiful.

Ruins of Rani ka Khas

Prag Mahal: Built in Italian Gothic architecture in Italian marble and red stone, this palace is said be named after Rao Pragmalji II. With the 2001 earthquake and a massive thief in 2006, the palace had lost its significance, till senior bollywood star Mr. Amitabh Bachchan took personal interest in restoring it.

The entrance to the palace takes you directly to the first floor, the first floor has very few artifacts, animal heads. This hall reminded me of the Bhau Daji Lad Museum of Mumbai, which has a similar architectural design.

The second floor has few rooms which have dusty cupboards and dressers with royal dresses and artifacts, and some huge utensils. The corridor on the second floor opens to a terrace, with the clock tower. You can make out the restoration work which has gone to make the tower stand after the earthquake. A climb up the tower gives you a bird's eye view of the Bhuj city. The stairs are really steep and me and hubby had to go turn by turn as kiddo was not ready to take those scary steep steps.

Aina Mahal: Just next to the Prag Mahal is Aina Mahal. While the building is very small compared to the huge Prag Mahal standing tall in the complex, this palace has a great treasure of artifacts, when compared to the former. While you are allowed to photograph here as well, but strictly prohibited from using flash.

Entrance of Aina Mahal

Built in Indo - European style, the palace dates back to 18th century, during the rule of Lakhpatji. The palace was built by Ramsinh Malam, who was a artisan trained in Europe for 17 years. Its said that the artisan established a glass factory in Mandvi and manufactured china tiles in a factory in Bhuj, for the construction of the palace. The walls and ceiling are constructed with marble and decorated with gold and mirror, and most of the palace flooring is of China tiles.

Center room

The palace has several rooms with in. At the center is the main room, looks more like a Durbar, with seating and few musical instruments at the center, Many glass lanterns and chandeliers hung around. Adjoining small rooms have collection of coins, swords and other artifacts.

The mirror work on the ceiling

Off all the rooms, one of the room has the royal belongings of the king, made of precious stones, and hug mirrors on all the walls of the room. The corridor around this room too has mirror work and an ivory door.

Carving on the door of the royal bed room

Inside the royal bed room

The corridor around the room

You come back to the center room and then out through the single entry. While we came out, there were a few college students who had come on excursion, it was good to find them eagerly listening to the history of the palace. From fort, we had to rush to Sharad Baug which was about to close at 12.

Travel Tips:
Bhuj Fort is well with in the city of Bhuj, in Kutch district of Gujarat state, in India.
Check my post Kutch Diaries Travel Plans, to plan your trip to Bhuj.

Entry Fee:

Prag Mahal: Rs. 20/ Adult, camera fee: Rs.50

Aina Mahal: Rs. 20/ Adult, camera fee: Rs.50

Four wheeler parking: Rs. 20/- 

Timings:

Prag Mahal: 9AM - 12noon and 3PM - 6PM

Aina Mahal: 10AM - 12:45PM and 3PM - 6PM, Thursdays closed

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