Sikandra, Agra

One of the other historical monuments in Agra is Akbar's Tomb in Sikandra. Sikandra was all together a new city constructed by Mughal Ruler Sikandar Lodi, quite before Babur. There was a old fort of King Badal Singh called Badalgrah fort, which Sikandra Lodi demolished and constructed a new fort during his rule. Off the glorious buildings constructed by Sikandar Lodi only the Baradari is what remains at the Sikandra today. Later during Akbar's rule, he chose this place for his burial and started its construction. Though this was completed only by his son Jahangir in 1613AD. Sikandra was 12km from Agra then, presently emerged into Agra.

South Gate

The main gate or so called south gate is made of red sand stone. Its said this gate was decorated with precious metal and stones, which was looted by Jats during their rule. The gate is a two storey building, upper storey has 'Naubat Khana', were big drums were played from moring to evening in honour of dead emperors. On either side of the gate way are court yards called 'Nau-Mahal'.

Akbar's Tomb

As we walk from the main gate, there are small tanks and cannals and there stands the four storeyed building(three stories made of red stone and last of marble, indicating their construction during Akbar and  Jahangir respectively). The building is said to resemble Panch Mahal of Fatehpur Sikri, both of which resemble Buddhist Viharas. Center of the main building is the grave of Akbar the Great, constructed on raised platform, cut out of single marble.

Other buildings in Sikandra are Sheesh Mahal, constructed by Jahangir for his beloved Noor-Jahan and Tomb of Mariam Zammani, Akbar's wife. Both the buildings are in ruined condition.
Travel Info:
Entry fee:
Indian tourist: Rs. 10/- for Akbar's Tomb, Rs. 5 for Mariam Tomb
Foreign tourist: Rs. 110/- for Akbar's Tomb, Rs. 100 for Mariam Tomb
Entry free for children below 15years(both Indian and foreign)
Open on all days from sunrise to sunset.

 

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Magnificent Taj Mahal

It was more than 15years back, when I visited Taj Mahal last. The memory of the Taj complex was not too clear, but for the magnificent Marble structure, which stays in every Indian's mind. The first look at the huge white wonder, leaves a person spellbound. My daughter had been waiting for our visit to Taj, since our trip started. The burning heat had tired her, but her enthu to visit the Taj, kept up her spirit. And then we get the first glimpse of the Taj.

Taj Mahal- The first view

Of the imperial rulers, Taj Mahal was built during the rule of Shah Jahan, in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. A Persian by birth Arjumand Bano Begum(Mumtaz Mahal) was a beautiful and mentally alert lady. She was the daughter of Noor Jahan(Jahangir wife)'s brother Yamin-U-Daulla Asaf Khan. Her father arranged for her education in a royal manner and she developed great qualities of royal family. She attracted Prince Khurram(Shah Jahan), both fell in love and got married to each other. She was the chief advisor to the Emperor and had major say in the administration. She also used to accompany the emperor during the wars. At the war against Khanjahan Lodhi at Burhanpur, Mumtaz fall ill during the birth of her 14^th child Gauhar Ara Beguam. Mumtaz express her last wish to Shah Jahan, to get a beautiful and uncomparable monument to be built over her grave. Transferring the care of Shah Jahan to her elder daughter Jahan Ara, Mumtaz breath last on 7^th June, 1631. The remains of Mumtaz Mahal were burried in a garden opposite to Burhanpur on other side of river Tapti. On 29^th December 1631, the body reached Agra, and was again buried temporarily in the Garben on the bank of river Jamuna. The construction of Taj started after many designs were put before the emporer. The main Mausoleum said had been completed by 1643AD, while the whole Taj complex took 22 long years for completion.

We were dropped at the Western gate of Taj, a few mins walk leads you to the ticket counter to the left. Along with ticket we purchased shoe covers, as its not allowed to enter the Mausoleum with shoes. Just near the ticket counter is Fatehpuri Maszid, which is said to be constructed in the memory of Fatehpuri Begum another wife of Shah Jahan.

As we enter through the Western Gate, there is a tomb of Situ-nu-Nisa Khanam on the left side. She is said to be the personal and favourite maid of Mumtaz Mahal.

Jilan Khana

Passing through the big courtyard called Jilan Khana or the Forecourt, you reach the gate way of red stone, which is a beautiful monument in itself. The gate way is an octagonal entrance hall surrounded by small rooms on both sides. The red stone structure has inlayed white marble, black marble and precious stones.

Main Gate

From this gate a few steps down take us to the Taj Garden. And you get the first glimpse of Taj Mahal.

 

Fountains and running channels of water with the reflection of Taj Mahal and rowed trees on either side of the channel, enhances the beauty of the complex. Its said, when constructed, water was drawn up from the river Jamuna by system of buckets, dipping into river and conveying water up by a chain way, drawn by bullocks or camel to run through the fountain and channels.

Taj Garden

As you reach the Mausoleum, high value ticket visitors are allowed from left stairs, while Indians through stairs.

The Mausoleum has the grave of Empress Mumtaz Mahal, built by Shah Jahan and of Emperor Shah Jahna, which was built by his son Aurangzeb. Taj is a mixture of Hindu and Persian Arts. Mughal Emperors were influenced by Hinduism, Jahangir's mother Jodha Bai and Shah Jahan's mother was a Hindu from Marwar. While their mothers worshipped hindu gods representing five basic elements of the Universe, its said the Taj has the influence of Shilpa Shastra, so called Panch Prasad or five Shrines. Taj Mahal with four corner minarets and the main building in the middle, is said to be purely Indian and is of 'Panch Prasad' type. The main building material, white marble was brought from Makrana of Rajasthan, red stone from Dholpur and fatehpur Sikri and precious stones and metals from around the world.

 

 

Both the interior and exterior of the Mausoleum has great architectural beauty. While photography is not allowed inside, you can capture the beauty on the outer walls. The cool river breeze from the river Jamuna and the treat of architectural beauty makes you sit and enjoy the magnificent Taj for hours.

River Jamuna

Mosque to the right of Mausoleum

With no mood to leave the place, we got out through the South Gate also called Sirhi Darwaza. Named after Shah Jahan's other wife Sirhindi Begum. Next to the Sirhi Darwaza is the tomb of Sirhindi Begum.

A well at the South Gate with Sirhindi Begum's tomb at the back

The South Gate is just for pedestrians and have souvenir shops on either side. You can shop miniature Taj Mahal and marble articles as souvenirs from here.

Travel Info:

Entry Fee:

Indian Tourist: Rs. 20/-

SAARC and BIMSTEC citizens: Rs. 520/-

Citizens of rest all countries: Rs. 750/-

Entry free for children below 15 years

Taj Mahal is open from sunrise to sunset, except for South Gate ticket counter, which is open from 8AM to 5PM.

Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays.

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Red Fort, Agra

"Why is history not made as interesting as this, in school?", this is what I asked my hubby, while our guide was taking through the tour of Agra Fort.

After watching bollywood movie Jodha Akbar so many times, I was very much fascinated with history of Agra and Akbar's rule. A visit to Agra Fort was long awaited by me.
Akbar the Great: Akbar was an efficient administrator. Though he was not educated, he took every step to keep his royal court with ablest and most efficient people. His ministry included both Muslim and Hindu ministers. With the help of his nine ministers, who were called 'Nine Gems', he established great administrative system in India and proved himself to be the ablest king. He established matrimonial relationship with neighboring Rajput state. He married Rajput princess Jodha Bai, who was  from the ruling family of Rajasthan.

 

Construction of the Fort: Constructed by Akbar the Great, Agra Fort got remodeled by three of Akbar's successors Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb to get its present structure. So the vast structure has various tastes and natures of the Mughal rulers.

The Fort which is situated in the right bank of Yamuna, is built of red sand stone. The fort was constructed in the place of Badalgarh fort, a strong foothold of Rajput rulers. Only less than half of the Fort is open to the public and rest is under the control of Defence (Agra Cantonment). Surrounding the fort are two big ditches. One of the ditch used to have crocodiles and the other wild animals, creating barrior against invasion.

The main gate open for the public entry is the Amar Singh Gate. Built by Shah Jahan, this gate gets its name after Amar Singh Rathore, Maharaja of Jodhpur. It’s said that, after been insulted by imperial treasurer Salabat Khan in court of Emperor Shah Jahan, Amar Singh slew Salabat Khan. While escaping from the court, riding on his horse back, he jumped the high walls of the fort, a gate was built at that place and a red sandstone horse was built in the memory of the horse.

Fort Tour: As we enter the gate there is the ticket counter to the left. After buying our tickets, our guide took us through the tour of the fort. The entrance has three consecutive gates, each constructed in such a way that, the next gate is visible only after crossing the first. Hence, the invaders had no clue of the next gate till they had control of the first. After crossing the third gate, there is a pass by, with tall walls on both the sides. The flooring of the pass by has bumpy structure. In case of an invasion, the movement of enemy horses through the pass way would be echoed through the walls hence alerting the ruler with the invasion. Boiling water followed by boiling oil would be sprayed on the enemies.

The Fort structure starts with Jahangir's Palace. The palace includes, a bed room, dining hall, Jodha Bai's Krishna temple and Jahangir's study room. Akbar, who was not educated, gave very much importance to the education of his son Jahangir. This palace is known for its blend of Hindu architecture.

Jahangir's Palace

Jahangir's Palace

Jahangir's Palace

Krishna Temple in Jahangir's Palace

Next is the Sheesh Mahal. Built with white marble, it is said to be built by Shah Jahan, grand son of Akbar and son of Jahangir. This was used as a dressing room by the ladies of royal family. The wall is laid with beautiful small mirrors. It consists of two halls and two tanks, one for hot water and other for cold water. In the twilight of small lamps, the mirrors reflect the light, giving it a heavenly feel.

Sheesh Mahal

After the Sheesh Mahal is the Khas Mahal, a beautiful white marble structure. It was used as drawing and bed room by Shah Jahan, on either side of the structure are pavilions of Shah Jahan's two daughters Jahan Ara Begum and Roshan Ara Begum. Which are replica of each other.

Khas Mahal

Jahan Ara Begum's room

Samman Burj or Octagonal tower, next to Sheesh Mahal, was built by Jahangir for his Empress Noor Jahan. Later remodelled by Shah Jahan for Mumtaz Mahal. It has beautiful architecture laid with semi precious stones. Its said, this was the place where Shah Jahan was kept imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. Though Taj Mahal can be viewed from most part of the Fort, this gives a very clear view. Shah Jahan spent his last days of life, watching Taj Mahal from here.

Samman Burj

View of Taj Mahal

Diwan-I-Khas, the place where Royal Durbars or meetings were held, is said to be built by Shah Jahan in 1637AD. It’s a marble structure, inlaid with semi precious stones and coloured flowers.

Meena Bazaar is a red stone building, built by Akbar, which was a market place for selling valuable goods. The market place for specific to ladies only, except for Emperor himself. The entry is allowed just to the first floor of Meena Bazaar.

Meena Bazaar

The stairs from the Meena Bazaar, takes you out to the Diwan-I-Aam. A hall for Public audience. This was initially built by Akbar with red stone and later remodelled by Shah Jahan with marble. The throne too is said to be built by Shah Jahan.

Throne at Diwan-I-Aam

Diwan-I-Aam

From the Diwan-I-Aam you are back to the garden at the entrance of the Jahangir's Palace, and then out from Amar Singh Gate. The Fort stands as a proof of the cultural and architectural glory, during the reign of Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

Travel info:

Entry fee:

Rs. 20/adult(Indian tourist)

Rs. 300/adult(Foreign tourist)

Entry free for kids below 15years, tickets can be bought at the ticket counter at the Fort only. Fort is open on all days from sunrise to sunset.

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History of Agra - from way before construction of Taj Mahal till the Mughal Invasion

From Mathura to Agra, as our journey moved, the history too moved from Lord Krishna to Mughal rule. Every structure and monument in Agra has historical importance, before starting my journey with the Magnificent Taj Mahal and other monuments in Agra, here is something with the history of this place.
    Situated in the banks of famous river Yamuna, Agra had great hindu rulers and imperial glory of mighty Mughals.Its said that Aryans settled at the same the present Agra. They choice as their settlement because it was situated between the fertile valleys of Ganga and Yamuna. Agra, which was called 'Arya-Griha' during their rule later got abbreviated and got its name Agra.

    Few other history identify Agra with the 'Agra Vana' of Mahabharat period. This place was famous for its lenghty and vast green forests and was famous as 'Brij Mandal' or 'Brij Bhoomi', which comprised of eighty four sub-forests(Mathura and Vrindavan were also one amonge the eighty four). This  place was found by maternal father of Krishna, Maharaja Agrasen or Ugrasen, whose name ultimately came to be known as Agra. Its said, there was a big prison of King Kansa, in Agra. During Mahabharath Agra was a prosperous city and was not very far from then capital Indraprasthna(present day Delhi). Then was a rule of Rajput of Mewar.

    Mohammad Ghaznavi invaded Agra in 1022AD and ruined Agra so much that it became one of the most insignificant villages of the land. It started losing its ancient glory and became a neglected city. Turned into a deserted and destroyed city. It became a mere village in the Sarkar of Bayana before Sikandar Lodi an Afghan ruler, made it his capital. Sikandar Lodi a military general, spotted Agra a suitable site to serve his military head quarters and became the seat of his Government in 1504AD. 

    There was a old fort of King Badal Singh called Badalgrah fort, which Sikandar Lodi demolished and constructed a new fort during his rule. Lodi constructed many buildings and his new city Sikandara which was 12km from Agra then, presently emerged into Agra after territorial expansion.

    In 1526AD, Babur invaded India to master Lodi's empire, which included Agra, Delhi and some parts of Punjab, in the third battle of Panipat. During his rule Babur, built Aaram Bagh, situated on the bank of Yamuna.

After the death of Babur, Humayun heired the throne. Due to his incapability to administer, he was attacked by Afghans and forced to leave Hindustan. Meanwhile he had married to Hamida Bano during his rule in India, who later gave birth to Akbar. With the help of Afghan, Humayun recaptured India in 1555AD.

    Though Babur and Humayun retained Agra as their seat of government, the city reached the pinnacle of its political power, cultural heights and architectural glory during the reign of Akbar, and his two immediate successors Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

    Following posts on the different monuments of Agra, which gave back the city its lost glory.

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Vishram Ghat, Mathura

From Krishna Janma Bhumi Temple, was our visit to Vishram Ghat, on the bank of the river Yamuna. The lane has shops which sell pooja items and an arch with few steps down, leads to the ghat.

The Ghat gets its name Vishram(resting) for been said, Lord Krishna rested at this place after killing Kamsa. This is the main Ghat of Mathura and is central to 25 other ghats. Vishram Ghat centres the 25 ghats in Mathura at 13th place, with 12 ghats on either side of it.

Yam Dwitiya: According to Mythology Yam(Dharmaraj) and Yami(Yamuna) where twins. Soft hearted Yamuna couldn't see sufferings of human beings and wished to alleviate them. On her birthday she invite her brother for feast. Pleased Yam, grants Yamuna with boon. She ask her brother to grant those people with relief from clutches of birth and death, whoever bathe in her water with faith on this day. Every year thousands of brothers and sisters visit Vishram Ghat to perform worship and get relieved from clutch of birth and dead.

There are many shrines on the Ghat, on the bank of holy Yamuna. Yam and Yamuna temples, Krishna Balraam Mukut temple, Radha Damodar Temple, Murali Manohar Temple, Langali Hanuman Temple, Neelkantheshwar Temple, to name few. 

Gordhan Nath temple is another small shrine, on the path way to the Ghat.

The boating at the Ghat, gives an entirely different view of the ghat from the river. Plan your visit during morning or evening Aarti. The chanting of aarti songs along with lite lamps floating on the water, surround the environment with holy and positive vibes.

Opposite to the Vishram Ghat arch, is Dwarkadeesh Temple. Dedicated to Lord Krishna and Radha, this is one of the oldest temples of Mathura.

There are other small shrines inside the temple, dedicated to other Hindu dieties. The temple is said to be built by Seth Gokul Das Parikh in 1824. Seth who was a treasurer in Gwalior Estate and a great devotee of Lord Krishna.

The temple has great architecture and paintings, though photography inside the temple premises is strickly prohibited. 

Check out the temple timings of all temples in Mathura and Vridavan, plan your visit accordingly.

 

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Mathura - Krishna Janma Bhoomi(Temple)

As kid I was very much fond of the mythological series on Television. Sunday mornings were long awaited for Mahabharat and Shri Krishna. The image of charriot with Krishna and Arjuna on the entrance of the Krishna Janma Bhoomi temple in Mathura, refreshed my memory of those TV series.

Mathura is well known as Krishna Janma Bhoomi. Krishna was born to Vasudeva and Devaki. Kamsa, Devaki's brother gets aakashwani(divine voice from the heaven), predicting his death from Devaki's child. He imprisons the couple in Mathura, then capital of Yadavas. Vasudeva secretly takes the new-born Krishna to Yashoda and Nanda in Gokul. Nanda a cow-herder settles in Vridavan and so does Krishna spend his childhood and youth in Vrindavan, which is around 15kms from Mathura.

Coming back to the present day, temple and the near by place is full of sadhus'(hindu saints) in saffron. Temple has high security, you need to deposite your baggage and moblies separately at the cloak counters, then undergo a series of security checks to reach the temple. As you enter the temple premises, there is a dragon shaped pass by, where there are models(moving) depicting lord Krishna's life. Then is the Janma Bhoomi Temple, its so said that this is the exact place where the prison(where Krishna was born) stood. Next is the Jhanki(moving models) room, depicting Lord Krishna and Rama's life. There are other small shrines dedicated to hindu god and goddess. And whole temple premises has shops selling photographs, idols of Lord Krishna and other pooja items.

After visiting the temple, you can quench your thirst with a glass of chilled Badam milk at the Brijwasi Mithai wala on the temple lane.

Janma Bhoomi Temple is well with in the city, you can take autorickshaw to reach here. Autorickshaw do take through the city tour and Vrindavan tour.

Temple Timings: 5am to 12noon and 2pm to 8pm

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