Catching up with the winged beauties at Bhigwan..

Though we had visited Sewri in Mumbai for Flamingo watch, we missed the visit to Bhandup pumping station, where agencies offer boat ride through the lakes to get the better view of winged beauties. I had come across many of my friend's photographs which had been clicked on boat ride, and they couldn't be missed. Bhigwan in Pune Sholapur border also attracts Flamingos and immigrant birds from Dec to almost May. So when we planned our visit to Padharpur in Feb, we thought of connecting Bhigwan Bird Sanctuary. Its an hours drive from Dahigaon to reach Pune-Sholapur Highway and another 25km till you reach Kumbhargaon Flamingo Point. There are many agencies in Kumbhargaon who offer the bird watch service, we had booked with Agneepankh Flamingo Point. We had been coordinating with Mr. Sandeep Nagare, the owner of Agneepankh for the visit. But the phone network was really bad towards the end, however the localites easily guide you. Mr. Sandeep Nagare, owns a house there and offers home-stay option. There is enough parking near his house, and a member of Agneepankh took us to the lake. The boat ride is around 20 mins(to reach the bird), they take you to the deeper waters with motor boats and then row as you near the birds. The number of birds when we visited was really low, when compared to those we had seen in Sewri, and didn't spot a single Flamingo. Even the mangroves of Kalwa and Bhandup in Mumbai offer you with Flamingos during the season. We were really disappointed, but the only good thing was we were able to view them from near. 

Herons

Seagulls

Storks and Gulls

Herons and a stork

A stork in flight

Just go with least expectation and you will be happy to find even few. Happy Birdwatching... 

Bhigwan is 115km from Pune on Pune -Sholapur road. The drive from Bhigwan village to Kumbhargaon is another 15km. 

Shri 1008 Mahavir Swami Digambar Jain Temple, Dahigaon!!!

On our way back from Pandharpur, we had planned our visit to Dahigaon and booked our Flamingo watch at Bhigwan. Dahigaon is a very small village in Solapur district, which is known for 200 year old Shri 1008 Mahavir Swami Digambar Jain Temple. Been one of the oldest Jain temples in this area, the temple has 5.5ft high idol of Bhagwan Mahaveer, and 18ft high idol of Bhagwan Bahubali. Best thing about this temple is the basement, with stone cave like structure which appears to be of ages. We have always heard about the threat Jain community and the temples have been facing, and might be it was one of those reasons for idols to be placed at the basement to avoid the destruction. You can't even guess there is a basement in the temple until you are told. The basement has idols of 20 thirthankaras of Videha Kshetra which are 4.4ft high, 9ft Adhinath Bhagwan and many small idols, which count upto 50 numbers.

The temple is really auspicious and idols are so different from the regular jain idols. You can feel the calmness and serenity when you are inside the temple premises. There is Jain Dharamshala and Bhojanshala near the temple. But you need to intimate prior at the Bhojanshala to have food.

Dahigaon is around 150km from Pune and Sholapur. Its 35km from Baramati and Phaltan, there are many jain families in Baramati and Phaltan and also temples. Every year many jain muni maharaj ji visit and stay during chathurmas at Baramati, Phaltan and Dahigaon. 

Mauli - Pandharpur Yatra Day 2

Day 2 of our trip was planned for the Shree Sant Gajanan Maharaj temple, Mahadhvar ghat, Pundalik temple and Vishnupad temple. We started our day 2 with Shree Sant Gajanan Maharaj Temple. Unlike the very old Vitthala temple, this temple is quote new and is built of white marble. The main temple has shrines of Sant Gajanan Maharaj and Vitthala Rukumai. The temple complex also has accommodation facility, which are quite well maintained. 

We visited the Vitthala Rukumai temple again to get a glimpse of the temple in day light and walked down to the Mahadhvar ghat, which also has the Pundalik temple, Pundalik who got lord Vitthala to Pundharpur. Settled on the banks of River Bhima, the town has many ghat with many shrines to visit.  The best way to view a ghat is from the river, so we took a boat ride at the Bhima river, to enjoy the ghat view from the river. The river is shallow and devotees easily cross the river by foot. The ghat was full of devotees, taking dip in the holy waters. 

These is displays of Vitthala Rukumai to get photographs clicked with

We hired a rickshaw to drive to Vishnupad temple which is 4km from Vitthala Rukumai temple, if you take road or you can as well take boat ride from Mahadhvar ghat. The temple houses the padhuka(foot print) of Lord Vishnu along with carvings on the pillars depicting Vishnu avathar. The temple is submerged in water when the river is full. The annual festival here is in the month of Margashirsha, the ninth month in Hindu calendar, when there is a chariot process of  Lord Vitthala, the incarnation of Vishnu. Being a sangam of Chandrabhaga and Pushpavati(Yamuna), mostly you can see is pilgrims performing funeral rituals of their relatives. 

 

Vishnud was our last place in Pandharpur and we drove to Dahigaon after lunch at Durvankar, which I will narrate in my next post. To read more about Pandharpur, please visit the complete posts here.

All About Pandharpur Wari...

When we moved to Pune last year, little did we know about the Pandharpur Wari. My daughter's school reopen got postponed due to Palki and we were told there would be severe traffic congestion in Pune due to the Palki's who on their way to Pandharpur would cross Pune on that day. I came across may heritage groups organising photo walks as well to click the celebration. Well known by Mauli song from Marathi movie Lai Bhaari, all that we knew was, an annual celebration takes place in Pandharpur every year, where millions of devotee walk in for the celebration. Being a Puneri majority society, our housing society hosted a Wari of Gyaneshwar Maharaj, making arrangements for their accommodation and food. And so did we visit them, to know more about the Wari and the significance. A group of around 50 people of all ages, were resting in our society clubhouse and there was a group which was singing bhajan and at a corner was the brindavan/tulsi plant in a metal pot.  The group had scheduled to take the next 200km in 20 days to reach Padharpur for Ashadi Ekadashi celebration.

Wari is the procession were in devotees walk bare foot from their homes to Pandharpur carrying the paduka(foot prints) of holy saints Gyaneshwar Maharaj and Tukaram Maharaj for the annual celebration. While devotees gather in Pandharpur every Ekadashi, 11th day of Hindu calender, the grand annual celebration takes place on Ashadi Ekadashi, the 11th day of 4th month of Hindu calendar. The devotees start their trip accordingly, around 21 days prior to reach Pandharpur on the day before Ekadashi. Many small groups of disciples of Gyaneshwar Maharaj and Tukaram Maharaj, join together on their journey to finally end up together at Pandharpur. The temple town is filled with devotees, visiting temples, taking holy dip at the Chandrabhaga river/Bhima river, singing bhajans. The celebration is best showcased in the Lay Bhari movie linked below, do watch it.

Ashadi Ekadashi this is year is celebrated on 23rd July 2018

To read more about Pandharpur, please visit the complete posts here

Shaniwar Wada and the Saga of Bajirao Mastani to Narayanrao's Death

Every time I passed the fort during my visit to Tulsibagh market, I imaged a magnificent Palace inside the wall with  beautiful rich carving and many art-crafts for display, like in any other palace. But what showed me in there was a big surprise, all it had was just the stone foundation of a historical structure, which was once a biggest mansion of Pune city. So I wanted to know the history before I could get to know about the place, and the best thing I could do was watch Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Bajirao Mastani. I watched the movie and visited the palace again on a heritage walk as part of Pune Heritage Festival. This time I could feel all the characters and structure of the movie come live,  Mastani Mahal, Aarse Mahal, Ganesh Mahal and more.

Peshwe Ganesh Temple

History of Peshwas - From Bajiarao 1 to Narayanrao

The history dates back to 18th century during the time of Bajirao I. Peshwas were the Prime Minister in the kingdom of Chatrapati Maharaj, the ruler who sat at Satara, then the capital of Maratha Kingdom. Bajirao 1 or Bajirao Ballal was the Peshwa during the period 1720 to 1740, and said to have not lost a single war during his regime. After the death of Bajirao, his eldest son Nansaheb became the Peshwa succeeded by his son Narayanrao. Its said, Narayanrao's uncle and Nanasaheb's brother Raghunathrao, killed Narayanrao to possess the kingdom. Raghunathrao sent letter to his guards to captivate Narayanrao, Raghunath's wife Anandibai cunningly changed the letter, commanding to kill Narayanrao. Narayanrao's body was chopped into pieces and taken out of the palace through the back entrance and cremated at the near by river banks. The palace is said to be haunted by Narayanrao's souls with Narayanrao's last words begging his uncle for help been heard at night even today, "Kaka Mala Vachwa"(Uncle save me).

The Palace Architecture and its demise 

Shaniwar Wada was one of the magnificent and stately mansion built ever in Pune. One of the buildings in Shaniwar wada was seven storied, with other important buildings Thoriya Rayacha Diwankhana(The Court Hall of Bajirao-1), Nachacha Diwankhana(Dancing Hall), Ganesh Mahal and Juna Aarse Mahal(Old Mirror Hall). The walls, arches and ceilings were said to be covered with intricate carvings, walls painted with stories of Ramayana and Mahabharta. The Palace is said to have got its name for all the important events of the building, laying the first stone to the opening ceremony took place on Saturdays. In 1818, Peshwas handed over the throne to British Government and moved to prison in Nagpur. Ten years later in 1820, whole palace was completely burnt down by a great fire which lasted for seven days and left only the heavy ramparts, strong gateways and buried foundations. 

All that's seen today

The present main entrance of the palace is Delhi Darwaza(facing today's Delhi), facing North. Adjoining to Delhi Darwaza is Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaza, which then led to Mastani Mahal, built for Mastani. Facing East are khidki Darwaza and Ganesh Darwaza. Even though Delhi Darwaza was big in construction, the main entrance was Ganesh Darwaza in use, with Peshwe Ganesh Temple at the entrance gate. Towards South is Narayan Darwaza, the door which was used to take the dead body of Narayan Rao out. The Delhi Darwaza, is a combination of Hindu and Islamic style with a cypress tree marking the addition of Christianity. The Nagarkhana on the top of Delhi Gate which once sang loudly glories of the great Peshwas survives even today and is a popular symbol of Pune city. The structure is under Archaeological Survey of India and the history and glory of the palace can be better experienced by the light and sound show conducted by the Archaeological department.

Delhi Darwaza with Cypress Tree in the front

As seen from Delhi Darwaza

 

So when you are in Pune's signature structure Shaniwar wada, just don't watch the ruined platforms but get deep into it and listen to the story every stone has to narrate, and don't forget to watch Bajirao Mastani movie before visiting this place.

Travel Tips:

Shaniwar Wada is in Shaniwar Peth in Pune city. Its around 3km from Swargate bus stand and Pune railway station and 11km from Lohgaon airport.
Timings: 9AM to 5:30PM
Entry Fee:
Indian Citizens - Rs. 15/-
Foreign Citizens - Rs. 200/-
Children below 15 years - Entry Free
Videography for personal use Rs. 25/-