Kutch Diaries - Rann Utsav, A Photo Essay

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Kutch is known for its rich culture, heritage and handicrafts. Being the coastal district of India, it was the destination by land and sea for people from Africa, Middle East and Swat Valley(even today Mundra port is one of the major ports, connecting India to Middle East and Far East through sea).  Its also said, a river system shared between Kutch, Sindh and Rajasthan and Kutch was the major trade hub of Indus Valley delta. Settlement of nomadic migrants from Rajasthan, Sindh, Afghanisthan and Iran, brought with them culture and handicraft.

With the present day scenario, artisans are facing real backing and don't get paid for the work goes into the making. Gujarat Tourism started Rann Ustav a cultural extravaganza which holds a kaleidoscope to various art forms of the region. Started with a month long event, presently the Ustav runs for 3 months(usually from December to March), when people from across India and beyond visit this place to experience its rich culture, heritage and art, along with beauty of Rann of Kutch, the salt flats of Kutch.

The art forms include embroidery, bandhani(Tie and Die), block printing, metal bells, leather art, pottery, wood carving, Lacquered Wood and more. Here is a photo essay of the stalls at Rann Utsav, most pics are linked to Khamir an organisation, which is a platform for craft, heritage and culture of Kutch region. A space to engage and develop its rich creative industry. Do visit the link to know more about the art forms, their origin, the process, the artisans and villages of Kutch where these art forms exist.

Kutch Embroidery

An artisan working on embroidery, you get embroideries on cloth, which you can get stitched on Sari blouse or Kurtis

Lacquered Wood, thats a rotating top and few wooden boxes and spatulas with painted kaleidoscopic designs

Hand lathe and the wooden items in making

Patch Work

An artisan working on patch work

Block Printing

Kutch Weaving

Leather work

Metal Bells, this set of 7 bells, had unique sound in every bell

This home decor had two forms of arts from Kutch, the Kutch embroidery along with the Metal Bell.

More creativity into Bells

The bead work, these are hair clips and finger rings

 

Wood Carvings

This is a wind charm, the pair of dolls dressed in Gujarati dress move in a pattern that resembles Garba, a dance form of Gujarat, with the blow of wind.

Other stalls, not native to Kutch,

Colourful Lanterns

 

Rann Utsav is a great initiative by Gujarat Tourism, and there is no middleman involved and artisans are paid for their work directly. 2001 earthquake destroyed much of Bhuj and its villages, where artisans lost their workshops and raw material. So do visit Rann Utsav and shop these art works to help sustain this wealthy treasure of art. 

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Kutch Diaries - Rann of Kutch

Previous Post on Kutch Diaries, Kutch Diaries - Travel Plans
Our day 1 at Kutch was the tour of Kala Dungar and White Rann(Greater Rann of Kutch). Rann of Kutch(the Greater Rann/White Rann and the Little Rann) is a shallow wetland which submerges in water during the rainy season and becomes dry during other seasons. The Rann of Kutch is famous for its marshy salt flats which become snow white after the water dries up each season before the monsoon rains.
We reached Bhuj by 9 in the morning, after freshening up, we left for Kala Dungar, the highest point in Kutch. Kala Dungar is 90km from Bhuj and the road is in very good condition. But you don't have any good restaurants on the way, till Toran resort which is also 85km from Bhuj, so better carry enough munchings for your drive. At Bhirandiara, which is around 53km from Bhuj, there are two routes, one to White Rann and other to Kala Dungar.
Permit to White Rann: At Bhirandiara village you get permit to enter the White Rann, as White Rann is at the India-Pakistan border. Our guide suggested us to take the permit, as the counter was not crowded(it could also be got while returning back from Kala Dungar). The permit can also be got at the Gujarat Police DSP office at Bhuj near Jubilee Grounds(closed on Sundays and 2nd and 4th Saturdays).
Permit charges: Rs. 100 per person and Rs. 50 per car. You need to produce id proof, better carry a photo copy of your(including family members) id as well.

Kala Dungar or Black Hill is the highest point in Kutch, and you get the view of the white desert from here. On the way to Kala Dungar, we drove through Khavda village. Being very close to Pakistan border, this village gives you a glimpse of any Pakistani village, men in Pathani suits. We drove ahead to Kala Dungar. As we near Kala Dungar, the road up hill is very narrow, and we were said, during peak vacation season, that route is mostly heavy in traffic.

There is a temple on the top, your vehicle reaches till the temple, then after you can take a camel ride or go by foot for another 100meters. Then there are stairs to reach the peak. The peak gives you an awesome view of the desert, a white stretch beyond boundaries. But with the misty weather, we could hardly make out the horizon.

View of Rann from Kala Dungar

View of Rann from Kala Dungar

On the way to Kala Dungar is Toran Resort, by Gujarat Tourism. While returning back from Kala Dungar, we had lunch at Toran and headed to White Rann.

We reached back to Bhirandiara and took the deviated route to White Rann. This route is full of ads by Resorts and Handicraft stores. Its another 35km drive from Bhirandiara which reaches you to White Rann.
First you get the Tent City, the temporary tents for the Rann Utsav. Then, you get the stalls selling Kutch handicrafts and food stalls(The Rann Utsav). The stores have the traditional handicrafts from across Kutch and India.

The Gateway to White Rann

After spending time here we drove to White Rann. You submit your permit at the final check post just before entering the salt flat. Vehicles are not allowed with in this, while you can take camel ride, to reach the end of the road(around half a km). While we were told, you can drive till the road end, during rest of the year(when Rann Utsav is not on). The crystal clear salt flat spread through the horizon leaves you mesmerized. The white salt stretches till your sight reaches.

The World's largest Salt Desert

The crystal shine salt

As part of Festival, they have adventure sports, and folk performance at the White Rann too. Also are camel rides and pony rides.

Performance at the white desert

  

After sun set, we drove back to Utsav stalls, had snacks, shopped Kutch souvenirs  and drove back to Bhuj by 9PM. Though the road is very lonely, its quite safe and as it was Utsav time, there was enough traffic.
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Kutch Diaries - Travel Plan

Am back from my short trip to Kutch and have lots and lots to share. The Rann of Kutch, its heritage, the Kutchi food, the handicraft, wildlife and more. So here is a series "Kutch Diaries" about Kutch, which I will be sharing in next few posts.
I can't even recall since when Rann of Kutch was in my 'to visit list'. I had been waiting for months now, for this trip. Mr. Bachchan's ad on TV and "Revealed - Rann of Kutch", the new series on Discovery Channel, everything just added to plan my trip soon. When I told my mom, I was planning my trip to Kutch, the first thing she asked me was, "Is Kutch the name of a Place?". She knew Kutch from decades as the thread work which she had done on her dresses, during her college days.

 

Mr. Bachchan's ad on Kutch, makes anybody fall in love with this place(I loved the Hindi version, watch the English version here)

Kutch district in Gujarat state is the largest district of India, with Bhuj at the center being the administrative headquarters of the district. Kutch literally means something which intermittently becomes wet and dry, a large part of this district is known as Rann of Kutch(the Greater Rann and the Little Rann) which is shallow wetland which submerges in water during the rainy season and becomes dry during other seasons. The Rann of Kutch is famous for its marshy salt flats which become snow white after the water dries up each season before the monsoon rains. Kutch is also known for the treasure of handicrafts the place offers, embroidery(Kutch work, patch work and more), block painting, bandhani(tie and die), mirror work, bead work, weaving, pottery, leather work, brass bells. Kutch is also a treasure of wildlife and migrant birds. Detailed posts on Kutch in following posts.

With long Christmas weekend, we planned our trip for 24th to 28th Dec, but I missed my train ticket booking just by few hours, and my booking went to waiting list. So all I had to do was, to connect my Kutch trip with Ahmedabad, if I had to travel by bus. We gave it a thought, a 2days trip to Kutch along with a day's halt at Ahmedabad. But, then we instead planned for just 2days trip exclusively for Kutch during the second weekend of December, as train tickets were available for all weekends except Christmas.

So we were ready with our train bookings, Bhuj/Kutch Express 11th Dec to 14th Dec. Me and daughter joined hubby at office and left for Bandra Terminus to catch our train. Our train itself gave us a glimpse of Kutch, with so many people from Kutch in the traditional Kutch attire.

Travel Plan:
Travel Tips:

• Bhuj is around 335km from Ahemadabad. Its well connected with rest of India by road, rail and air.
• GSRTC buses connect Bhuj to other places of Gujarat.
• Bhuj is 16hours journey from Mumbai by train and 8hours from Ahemadabad.
• Bhuj has airport, with regular flights connecting to major cities of India.

• Best time to visit Kutch is December to March, during Rann Utsav which this year is 1st December to 5th March 2015 and ends on Holi festival with celebration.
• Climate: The temperature was as low as 14 degree at night when we visited, which compared to Mumbai was very much chill. The temperature during summer reaches as high as 50 degree Celsius.

Itinerary:
Day 1: Kala Dungar, White Rann/The Greater Rann of Kutch
Day 2: Bhuj city tour, Mandvi city tour
You should definitely go for two separate day tours for Bhuj and Mandvi, but we didn't have time. Since we were there during Rann Utsav, we came across all the artisans working at the Rann Utsav stalls, else you would need one complete day for Bhuj city and the villages around Bhuj, to get a glimpse of the Kutchi artisan's work. Do check out About Travel web-page if you would like to visit the handicraft villages.

Rann of Kutch

Stay and Food: We had booked our stay at Lalchand Thavar Jain Mahajan Wadi(contact 02832-222369), a Jain guest house, but open for Hindu too. They also have Jain Bhojanalay, where they serve Gujarati Jain food. The guest house is just next to Bhuj Bus station and around 3km from Railway Station.
Tariff(Double Bedroom):
Non A/C: Rs. 500
A/C: Rs. 800
Delux A/C: Rs. 1000

The traditionally crafted Kutch Bhunga(mud huts) at Toran Resort near White Rann

• There are many hotels around Bhuj Bus Station, and Swami Narayan Temple Trust is another place where you can stay at, at budget.
• There are lot of other Resorts, in and around Bhuj city, which offer luxury stay options, Rann Village, Toran Resort are few of them. 
• During Rann Utsav, Gujarat Tourism set up the Tent City, offering accommodation near White Rann. Most of these Resorts offer you pick-up and drop facility, to and from Bhuj station. 
• You should definitely taste Kutchi food when you are in Kutch. Most of my meals were Gujarati, for the two days. There are many South Indian, Punjabi and Fast Food centers in Bhuj as well. Market road in Bhuj, is the place to taste street food, most of them are Dabeli though.
• Gujarat is a dry state and alcohol is prohibited.

Yummy Gujarati Food

Tour: We had booked our taxi with Hari Om tours and Travels for both the days.
Tariff(this might vary during peak season):
Maruti Swift Dzire, for 4 people
A/C: Rs. 8/km, mini 300km per day(Rs. 2400)
Non A/C: Rs. 7/km, mini 300km per day(Rs. 2100)

• Its better to hire taxi to visit Rann of Kutch. 
• Bhuj city and near by villages can easily be explored by autorickshaw as well. 
• The other option for Mandvi is, take GSRTC or any private bus service from Bhuj to Mandvi and hire an autorickshaw at Mandvi for the city tour.

Shopping:

• If you are visiting Kutch during Rann Utsav, the best place to shop is at the stalls set up at White Rann. 
• There are many Handicraft shops in Bhuj.
• Craft Parks set up at the near-by villages, Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park at Bhujodi village(around 10km from Bhuj) is one of the option.

A stall at Rann Utsav

PS: Extended Tours in Kutch from Bhuj:
One Day tour to Dholavira, which contains the ruins of the ancient Indus Valley civilization/Harappan City. Dholavira is around 220km from Bhuj.
One Day tour to Little Rann of Kutch, which is world's last refuge to Indian wild Ass, and the area is declared as Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary. This is around 230km from Bhuj well approached from Ahmedabad than Bhuj.

Updated on 5th Dec 2023
Rann Utsav 2023-24 is from 10th Nov 2023 to 15th Feb 2024

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