Shaniwar Wada and the Saga of Bajirao Mastani to Narayanrao's Death

Every time I passed the fort during my visit to Tulsibagh market, I imaged a magnificent Palace inside the wall with  beautiful rich carving and many art-crafts for display, like in any other palace. But what showed me in there was a big surprise, all it had was just the stone foundation of a historical structure, which was once a biggest mansion of Pune city. So I wanted to know the history before I could get to know about the place, and the best thing I could do was watch Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Bajirao Mastani. I watched the movie and visited the palace again on a heritage walk as part of Pune Heritage Festival. This time I could feel all the characters and structure of the movie come live,  Mastani Mahal, Aarse Mahal, Ganesh Mahal and more.

Peshwe Ganesh Temple

History of Peshwas - From Bajiarao 1 to Narayanrao

The history dates back to 18th century during the time of Bajirao I. Peshwas were the Prime Minister in the kingdom of Chatrapati Maharaj, the ruler who sat at Satara, then the capital of Maratha Kingdom. Bajirao 1 or Bajirao Ballal was the Peshwa during the period 1720 to 1740, and said to have not lost a single war during his regime. After the death of Bajirao, his eldest son Nansaheb became the Peshwa succeeded by his son Narayanrao. Its said, Narayanrao's uncle and Nanasaheb's brother Raghunathrao, killed Narayanrao to possess the kingdom. Raghunathrao sent letter to his guards to captivate Narayanrao, Raghunath's wife Anandibai cunningly changed the letter, commanding to kill Narayanrao. Narayanrao's body was chopped into pieces and taken out of the palace through the back entrance and cremated at the near by river banks. The palace is said to be haunted by Narayanrao's souls with Narayanrao's last words begging his uncle for help been heard at night even today, "Kaka Mala Vachwa"(Uncle save me).

The Palace Architecture and its demise 

Shaniwar Wada was one of the magnificent and stately mansion built ever in Pune. One of the buildings in Shaniwar wada was seven storied, with other important buildings Thoriya Rayacha Diwankhana(The Court Hall of Bajirao-1), Nachacha Diwankhana(Dancing Hall), Ganesh Mahal and Juna Aarse Mahal(Old Mirror Hall). The walls, arches and ceilings were said to be covered with intricate carvings, walls painted with stories of Ramayana and Mahabharta. The Palace is said to have got its name for all the important events of the building, laying the first stone to the opening ceremony took place on Saturdays. In 1818, Peshwas handed over the throne to British Government and moved to prison in Nagpur. Ten years later in 1820, whole palace was completely burnt down by a great fire which lasted for seven days and left only the heavy ramparts, strong gateways and buried foundations. 

All that's seen today

The present main entrance of the palace is Delhi Darwaza(facing today's Delhi), facing North. Adjoining to Delhi Darwaza is Mastani or Alibahadur Darwaza, which then led to Mastani Mahal, built for Mastani. Facing East are khidki Darwaza and Ganesh Darwaza. Even though Delhi Darwaza was big in construction, the main entrance was Ganesh Darwaza in use, with Peshwe Ganesh Temple at the entrance gate. Towards South is Narayan Darwaza, the door which was used to take the dead body of Narayan Rao out. The Delhi Darwaza, is a combination of Hindu and Islamic style with a cypress tree marking the addition of Christianity. The Nagarkhana on the top of Delhi Gate which once sang loudly glories of the great Peshwas survives even today and is a popular symbol of Pune city. The structure is under Archaeological Survey of India and the history and glory of the palace can be better experienced by the light and sound show conducted by the Archaeological department.

Delhi Darwaza with Cypress Tree in the front

As seen from Delhi Darwaza

 

So when you are in Pune's signature structure Shaniwar wada, just don't watch the ruined platforms but get deep into it and listen to the story every stone has to narrate, and don't forget to watch Bajirao Mastani movie before visiting this place.

Travel Tips:

Shaniwar Wada is in Shaniwar Peth in Pune city. Its around 3km from Swargate bus stand and Pune railway station and 11km from Lohgaon airport.
Timings: 9AM to 5:30PM
Entry Fee:
Indian Citizens - Rs. 15/-
Foreign Citizens - Rs. 200/-
Children below 15 years - Entry Free
Videography for personal use Rs. 25/-

Bahubali Mahamastakabhisheka 2018 Celebration!!!

So the once in 12 years grand occasion of Mahamastakabhisheka was started. The occasion was inaugurated by honourable President of India Ram Nath Kovind on 7th Feb and attended by many dignitaries including Prime Miniter Narendra Modi over the days of celebration. 

We were part of the celebration with invite from Ministry of Information and Broadcasting to cover the occasion. While hubby had moved to Bangalore in January, I managed to fly to Bangalore for a weekend from Pune to attend the celebration. We drove to Hassan the previous day to collect our passes, stayed there for a night and drove to Shravanbelagola the next morning. Being the initial 10 days of celebration, the entry was strictly for media and pass holders who had bought the Jalabhisheka and Panchamrutha Abhisheka in auction. Even with the hot and humid weather, people gathered in thousands to attend the celebration. The celebration started with jalabhisheka(water) followed by Panchamrutha Abhisheka with milk, sugarcane juice, rice atta, tender coconut water, sandalwood paste, saffron paste ending with flowers, garland and aarti. 

The 10 days celebration had religious and cultural celebration at many stages set up in and around Shravanbelagola city. Food and accommodation arrangements were equally well managed by the Shravanbelagola Jain matt, jain communities from different cities, with the help of many volunteers.  

Chamundaraya Mantap - a stage set for the religious celebration

Night view of Vindhyagiri Hill in light

The Mahamasthakabhisheka celebration will be till August, however the other religious celebrations and arrangements were till Feb end only. You can plan a visit soon. There is lot more to just the Mahamasthakabhisheka celebration and Vindhyagiri Hill, explore the temple town along with Chandragiri hill and the other temples to be mesmerised by the history and heritage it offers.

Travel Tips:

1. Footwear not allowed up the hill, carry socks if you want to avoid the burning hot stone steps while climbing up. There are stalls selling socks as well if you miss carrying.

2. Carry caps, umbrellas to avoid the heat while watching the celebration, as there is no shade except near the foot of the idol, which is mostly crowded.

3. There is drinking water available, but food not available, people manage to carrying, but should be avoided.

4. Try to climb the hill early morning to avoid the heat.

5. No good accommodation or food is available other than the first 10 days celebration. For accommodation and food you can opt for Hassan city which is 50km from Shravanbelagola city.