The Beating Retreat at Wagah Border

We were done with Golden Temple and Jallianwala bagh by 1 and planned to leave for Wagah Border after lunch. Amritsar is one of the best places for Foodies especially if you are a Vegetarian. No non veg is allowed till a km or two from the Golden Temple. The only place where you find Pure Vegetarian Pizza Hut, McDonald's and Domino's outlets too, isn't it surprising. As a pure vegetarian, it was a feast for me, the Amritsari Kulchas, burgers everything veg. After lunch, our taxi was ready to pick us for Wagah Border. The drive from Amritsar to Border is one awesome one, with Sarso ke kheth(Mustard fields) on either side. 

Wagah Border is around 32km from Amritsar. While Wagah is on the Pakistan side and the last Indian village at the border is Attari, its well known as Wagah Border in India as well than Attari Border. The Beating Retreat Ceremony, the lowering of the flags ceremony, is the daily military practice that security forces of India(Border Security Force(BSF)) and Pakistan(Pakistan Rangers) have been following since 1959, when the flags on either side of the border are lowered before sunset.

We were dropped at the parking lot, where our driver asked us to make note of the place, as there wouldn't be mobile network to get in touch with him later. That parking area seemed like a fare in itself with stalls selling snacks, flags, CDs about BSF, kids and adults getting flag painted on face. We walked for few steps and the board read the border was a km ahead and there were two separate queues for ladies and gents which looked never ending and couldn't even spot the border gate from there. We joined the queue, and the gents queue seemed too long and me and kiddo wanted to wait till we could find hubby, but security personal insisted us to move on as ladies security check in would rather take more time and hubby would join us by then. It took almost an 1hour to finish the check in and reach the Swarn Jayanti Dwar, the border gate on Indian side. Though it seemed we had reached quite on time, by the time we reached the parade area, it was full and we got seats somewhere in a corner.

The two sides of the border, each with their flags flying high and the huge photographs of father of their Nation on their entry gates. The crowd was no less enthusiastic than at any cricket stadium. The patriotic songs been played, made everyone zoom with the tricolour. The ceremony started sharp at 4:30 and it was a pleasure to watch the armed men and women marching for the ceremony. Its a moment of pride, when the security personal from both side march towards each other representing the pride and power of their nation. The Beating Retreat ceremony is a must be event for any Indian.

Pakistan Tourism Bus

As the flags get lowered

The Flag on the Swarn Jayanthi Dwar is lowered too

 

The ceremony lasted for almost 20mins, the crowd dispersed and we started walking back towards the parking lot. We could find people walking to the border even then. Heard, they stop the crowd at the starting gate itself when the parade area gets full and people wait there till the ceremony finishes and visit the border to just get the glimpse of the border area.

Travel Tips:

• There are many private vehicles which play from Amritsar to Wagah Border. You can easily find them near Golden Temple, but not sure at what time they reach the border.
• If you are planning to go by taxi on your own, better to leave early to reach border at least by 2:30. The gate opens by 3 and there is already a big queue even before the gate opens.
• Apart from the ceremony, the border is open for rest of the time for visit, when people can reach till Swarn Jayanthi Dwar.
• Hand bags, eatables not allowed. There are stalls just before the Swarn Jayanthi Dwar, where you get snacks and water bottles. Leave all your other bags and stuff in your vehicle in the parking lot or at your hotels. Its also better to be light without baggage to take the long queue.

Do check out the complete series on this trip of mine here.